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Never Constant - Beauty Through the Ages

In the ancient world, ideals of beauty were closely connected with cultural, social, and philosophical perspectives. Greece, for instance, celebrated the concept of “kalos kagathos”, which emphasised finding a balance between physical attractiveness and moral virtue. The Greeks admired youthful, athletic bodies, considering them a reflection of a person's discipline and commitment to excellence.

Meanwhile, in ancient Egypt, beauty was seen as a divine quality, connected with the gods and the heavens. Smooth, perfect skin and symmetrical features were valued, and cosmetics were used not only to look more beautiful but also as a form of spiritual expression. In contrast, Roman ideals of beauty often centred around a more tough and well-built physique, reflecting the importance of strength and vitality in their militaristic society.

As we moved into the early Middle Ages, around the 5th century, the influence of Christian beliefs led to less emphasis on physical appearance. In fact, too much care of the body or the use of makeup were often discouraged. The ideal of feminine beauty shifted towards a more modest and plain appearance. Pale skin remained desirable, but excessive efforts to achieve it were discouraged. This period saw a move away from celebrating physical attractiveness, and the focus shifted towards inner virtues and religious devotion.

During the Renaissance period, ideals of female and male beauty underwent another notable transformation. For women, the ideal moved back towards a more rounded figure, characterised by a full bosom, a softly defined waist, and rounded hips. This represented fertility and motherly qualities, reflecting societal values of the time. Fair skin was also highly prized, as it signified nobility and a life of leisure, away from manual labour. Later, in the Baroque Era an even more voluptuous female figure became fashionable in Europe, characterised by a shape with big curves.

In the Victorian era, which spanned from the early 19th century to the early 20th century, ideals of male and female beauty changed again. For women, ideas about beauty revolved around a delicate, modest appearance. Pale, porcelain-like skin was considered a sign of elegance and virtue, and was achieved through the use of cosmetics like lead-based face powders.  A very small waist was considered ideal and was achieved by the use of a corset, a garment which could be tightened to significantly reduce the size of the user’s waistline. The small waist emphasised a woman's ability to follow the society’s standards of grace and modesty. Additionally, full, rounded hips and a generous bust were admired, reflecting the era's idealisation of motherhood and domesticity. As for men, the Victorian ideal of beauty involved a tough, well-groomed appearance. A strong, upright posture was favoured, indicating discipline and self-control. A full, well-trimmed beard was often seen as a symbol of masculinity and maturity, while a tailored suit emphasised a man's social status.

The 1920s marked a seismic shift in ideals of male and female beauty, reflecting the cultural revolution of the Jazz Age. For women, the "flapper" aesthetic emerged as a symbol of liberation and rebellion against traditional norms. The ideal flapper possessed a slender, boyish figure, with a straight shape that rejected the hourglass figure of previous eras. Bobbed hair and a carefree, genderless appearance became celebrated, as did a more liberated attitude towards makeup and fashion. Dark, smoky eyes and vibrant red lips became symbols of the era's bold and experimental spirit. In contrast, male beauty ideals also underwent transformation. The lean, athletic build of the ideal male reflected the influence of Hollywood icons like Rudolph Valentino. A clean-shaven face was favoured, and well-groomed hair became a sign of modernity and sophistication.

The 1960s witnessed another revolution in ideals of beauty that mirrored the profound cultural shifts of the era. For women, the prevailing aesthetic was epitomised by the emergence of the "mod" look, characterised by a slender, youthful frame. Twiggy, a model who one could even call skinny, became the iconic face of this era, popularising the notion of the "coltish" girl. The emphasis on a slim physique and androgynous features clearly contrasted with the curvier, more voluptuous ideals of the previous decades. Makeup trends shifted towards bold, graphic statements, with heavy eyeliner and vibrant eyeshadows at the forefront. In contrast, male beauty ideals took on a more youthful and relaxed tone. The clean-cut, all-American look of icons like the Beatles and James Dean set the standard. Longer hair for men became a symbol of rebellion against conventional norms, while a toned, natural physique was favoured.

By the 1980’s things had changed again. This time period brought about an exercise-crazed phenomenon. Workout videos were all the rage, encouraging women to be slim, but also fit and athletic. This era also saw an upswing in anorexia, thought by some experts to be caused by an widespread obsession with exercise.

The 1990s brought in a unique blend of natural beauty ideals and a rejection of the highly stylized looks of previous decades. For women, a minimalist approach became popular, with models like Kate Moss leading the "heroin chic" movement. The ideal female beauty of the 90s was characterised by a slender physique, often accompanied by a more androgynous, tomboyish style. This departure from the more voluptuous figures of the 80s was a reaction to the perceived excesses of the previous era. Makeup trends favoured a more plain, "no-makeup" look, with a focus on natural tones and understated lip colours. Men, too, embraced a more relaxed aesthetic. The "grunge" movement popularised by bands like Nirvana championed a rugged, unkempt appearance. This was reflected in fashion with loose-fitting, casual clothing.

Fashion never stays the same and neither do people’s ideas about what ideal male and female beauty should be. Our ideals seem to be continuously moving through cycles. The truth is, it can be hard to keep up!